Depth finder

[Unclehandy]

Now I'm really lost Boom, I think I understand what your saying however I have a raised deck and a 3M product on the floor that reduces noise etc, The only way to mount it would be in the rear where the switches / battery and bilge pump are mounted... Not even sure if that would be the optimal position. How big is this "puck"

Or, you could just epoxy the regular transducer on the outside! Look at this product! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r_4a4O7kXQo

[WestEndAngler]

<< Shoot-Thru-Hull Mount
This installation must be made in an area of the hull that is made from solid fiberglass

Yah I'm running an aluminum boat

[WestEndAngler]

Now I'm really lost Boom, I think I understand what your saying however I have a raised deck and a 3M product on the floor that reduces noise etc, The only way to mount it would be in the rear where the switches / battery and bilge pump are mounted... Not even sure if that would be the optimal position. How big is this "puck"

[Unclehandy]

<< Shoot-Thru-Hull Mount
In this installation, the transducer is bonded to the inside of the hull with epoxy. Ideally, the transducer is placed in the aft third of the hull close to the centerline. The signal "shoots through" the hull with some loss of signal strength. This installation must be made in an area of the hull that is made from solid fiberglass, with no air bubbles or separated layers. If the hull is of multi-layer or "sandwich" construction, you will have to remove the inner layer of fiberglass and the wood or foam core to expose the outer layer of the hull. This type of mount is recommended only with 192 or 200 kHz transducers.

http://www.lowrance.com/en/Support/T...nsducer-Guide/

Its for his aluminum hull

[boom]

<< Shoot-Thru-Hull Mount
In this installation, the transducer is bonded to the inside of the hull with epoxy. Ideally, the transducer is placed in the aft third of the hull close to the centerline. The signal "shoots through" the hull with some loss of signal strength. This installation must be made in an area of the hull that is made from solid fiberglass, with no air bubbles or separated layers. If the hull is of multi-layer or "sandwich" construction, you will have to remove the inner layer of fiberglass and the wood or foam core to expose the outer layer of the hull. This type of mount is recommended only with 192 or 200 kHz transducers.

http://www.lowrance.com/en/Support/Tips-and-Tutorials/Transducer-Guide/

[boom]

No. You buy a different transducer that is just a "puck" with the wires coming out. You then hook everthing up and set it in the bottom of the boat with sand bags to secure it and find where it reads the best. Then you mix epoxy and set it to the bottom of the boat. You have to make sure there are no air bubbles in the mixture and it will read better than the screw on transducers.
A transducer is nothing more than a microphone/speaker that transmits a ping and then listens for the return of the ping. When you tie the transducer into the whole bottom of the boat it essentually makes the system a ghetto blaster.

[007]

Really good Mike. It would be a snap to re run the wires considering you already have them run etc... I was looking at your setup the other day...

When I replaced my steering, I pulled 6 strings when I pulled the cable back thru.

[WestEndAngler]

You can epoxy the transducer to the floor of the boat (inside) and if done right it will actually read better than if screwed to the transome.

Not following you here Boom... explain are you talking a thru hull transducer?

[Unclehandy]

I just want it to target drop offs.

It'll work fine. I used it to find the deep holes out at the north jetty, with no problems.

[WestEndAngler]

Really good Mike. It would be a snap to re run the wires considering you already have them run etc... I was looking at your setup the other day...

[007]

I had the $79 on my last boat for like 5 yrs. Sold it working with the boat. They work fine for the basic stuff.

I just want it to target drop offs.

[Unclehandy]

Some of those look pretty good for the price.

I had the $79 on my last boat for like 5 yrs. Sold it working with the boat. They work fine for the basic stuff.

[007]

Eagle makes some pretty cheap ones. I have had one for years, but I never use it. I would sell it to you, but I dont know if it even works anymore. I think water temp comes standard on all of them that I know of. Check these out.

http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/st...&currentpage=1

Some of those look pretty good for the price.

[boom]

Yah I was looking at one for my boat just so I could tell when I was getting shallow when drifiting shell reefs... They don't sound good on an aluminum hull

Although I wouldn't want to drill into mine I was looking at the suction cup models... Not sure how they'd hold on when I get to moving etc.

You can epoxy the transducer to the floor of the boat (inside) and if done right it will actually read better than if screwed to the transome.

[WestEndAngler]

http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/links/link.jsp?type=product&cmCat=Related_IPL_020646&id=0000844010095a

I might mount this on my rear hunt deck next to the engine... Perhaps it will clear... What do yall think about the suction cup model on painted aluminum?